Day 9- Crossing the Pyrenees to Spain. Day 10-To Zubiri

Roncesvalles – 

We were blessed with a beautiful day to cross the Pyrenees permitting us to choose The Napoleon Route (which I guess he did used with his army). 

On the path we are joined by an army of international pilgrims for the 1,390 meter climb to the border of Spain, followed by a 600 meter descent to Roncesvalles. Here way stay at a huge Alburge run by Dutch volunteer hosptilareos. (My companions, An & Mieke, will be returning here in a few days to help for 2 weeks) The main building alone houses 266 pilgrims in beautiful spotless contemporary dormitories. 

All our efforts on the ascent were rewarded with majestic views which we enjoyed during our numerous rest stops. Having such a large community of hikers in front and behind us was a huge change from the previous segment from Lourdes and took a bit of an attitude adjustment. 


This was by far our longest and highest hike so far. However we were grateful for the experience and conditioning gained during our French hike which began with gentle hills and gradually increased in difficulty. We no longer needed to worry about finding food as we did on the trails in France, here there were two food trucks just on today’s walk. 


We finished the day @ 5:15 pm, after 10 hours walking, just in time to clean up and attend the Pilgrims mass & blessing. There were people from about 25 countries attending.  


Dinner was a different experience. We had the late seating which provided us with a few pilgrims who had bee too long at “happy hour “. And we were “blessed” to have the loudest of them join our table. 

Fortunately, our dorm was the on the top floor so we did not have bunk beds which was great. Lights are turned off at 10:00 & back on at 6:00am and we are required to be out by 8:00am.  It is very different lifešŸ‘£

Zubiri – 

Today was a much less challenging walk but still presented some difficult downhill sections. The day was filled with Buen Camino greetings with our new collection of friends from around the world. It is wonderful to observe people connecting as we move along the Way at varying speeds. Some greetings turn into conversations which may last for a kilometer or two and may be continued that afternoon over coffee in the next village or the roadside food truck. (Today’s truck offers an unusual Camino promise!)


We encountered friends from previous albergues and met many new friends. My friend An has such a beautiful spirit that she is a people magnet. She also speaks many languages and is quick to offer assistance to anyone in need. 

This night we stayed in a new beautiful 3 bedroom apartment. Living arrangements like everything are shared. We were shown to our bedroom and home for the night by the owner then went out for a look around town. Returning “home” to discover that the other 2 bedrooms are occupied by strangers. Such is the Pilgrims life in rural Spain. 

We again ran into our British friends before as we headed out to dinner and enjoyed a great meal & dessert. We all found sleeping a bit difficult once. This time we could blame a lonely sheep nearby bleating for hours and the nearby church bell marking the hour all night!

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