Yesterday Marco explained that grapes make better wine when they are grown in very bad rocky soil as it is found here. He went on to tell me the reason so many monasteries are known for great wine. The royalty were required to tithe land to the church, so the gave them the worst! Today’s walk was largely on paved pathways which are hard on the feet. A good portion was city sidewalks through Logrono.
The other man was on bike with a cart for his dog. He had ridden all the way from Hungary and now had to find a repair shop to fix his flat tire and replace three broken spokes.
It is fun to see which new old friends show up each day. You think you will not see someone again and they pop up. It’s a moving game of leap frog 🐸.
The cathedral in Navarette is quite plain from the outside. Inside is another matter displaying the most spectacular altar I’ve seen so far.
After dinner I was chatting with a couple from Australia sitting at the next table. They were pleased to tell me that after the Camino they will be traveling to the states to visit their daughter in graduate school at …wait for it……Yale! Such a small world 🌎
Day 18 – Rest Day
A bit of indigestion along with tired feet convinced me that it was time for a real day of rest. My other rest days have included 6-9 miles of sightseeing. My rough calculations have me a bit over 300 kilometers into my 1,000k walk. My iPhone tells me that I’ve walked a total of 250 miles which includes tourist walking.
Navarette is a perfect village to rest because I was able to see it all yesterday. So today I will spend the day between hanging out at the corner terrace cafe and napping in my hotel three doors away. I will revisit the church at least once to pray for all those who are in my prayer book.🙏 I have taken time during this break to review the news I’ve missed. Sadly I will be adding, the people of Puerto Rico and the victims and families of the shooting in Las Vegas, to my prayer book.
The most difficult part of the mornings debate with myself about taking the day off is that many of my new friends will continue on without me. Even though I know that I will crossing paths with some and be adding new friends as I continue, it is a difficult decision. From my strategic position at the cafe I can watch the slow parade of pilgrims and have been greeted by a number of those friends as they continue westward toward Santiago.
I am guessing that many begin their Camino in Logrono as the sheer volume has increased, as has the competition to find a free bed. Thus the reason I’m in a hotel for 2 nights. Hopefully this is a local phenomenon. I know this will become an issue again within 100k of Santiago which is still many weeks away.
A friend asked how I am holding up after 2+ weeks and about 250 miles of walking so I thought I’d pop in a quick health report. Unbelievably I’ve been ache, pain, and blister free from the start. Yesterday I developed a small bit of swelling in one toe which a piece of tape seems to have taken care of. I am not sure how much weight I’ve lost so far but my belt is about one inch smaller. I’m giving all the credit to the blessing and bath I received in Lourdes. 🙏
I really do feel blessed since I’ve spoken with and witnessed a number of walking wounded. Many of these people refused to listen to their body, determined to push through pain. Surprisingly, some of these are the ones who have used one of the many bag services available to send their bag ahead. The irony is that this commits them to walking that distance. I previously walked with one such woman who I ran into today. She said it was 8:30pm when she reached her destination that day. She is now carrying her own bag.
I ended my day off attending a mass after dinner to pray for those in Las Vegas & Puerto Rico. At the end of the mass the priest asked all pilgrims to come forward for a blessing. Rather a moving experience in the magnificent structure.
That is it for todays report😊👣 now more R&R